Vetements выпустили джинсы с прозрачной задней частью за 140 тысяч рублей

Anfisa Salnikova@anfisteticaЗдоровье и красота21 сентября 2026, 04:47

I said “how is this not The Row?” to my phone this week. The answer was that it’s Gucci. Floor-length washed nylon, the colour of nothing in particular, shoulders halfway down the arm, hidden buttons, no name anywhere. Gucci calls it the washed matte nylon trench: $3,300, from Demna’s first runway show in February. The Row’s Arwen, in shops since last winter, is described by The Row as an ankle-length oversized trench in washed lightweight nylon with a concealed placket. Taupe. Listed at $3,900. You could swap the two descriptions and nobody would notice. So is Gucci doing The Row? I went looking for a yes and came back with a no. None of those elements is The Row’s. The giant dropped shoulder is older than the brand, and Demna was cutting trench coats for imaginary giants back in the mid-2010s. Luxury nylon is Prada’s. Taupe is nobody’s. A missing logo isn’t a signature, it’s the lack of one. What The Row has is the habit of combining these things, year after year, without flinching, until people like me hear its name when we see the shape. Shared vocabulary, then. The difference is grammar, and some of it shows without touching either coat. Gucci adds a tailored notch lapel, sizes the coat in Italian numbers and tells you to size down: the volume is an effect, adjust to taste. The Row sells small, medium, large: the volume is the coat. And on the runway Gucci put it over tracksuit bottoms with the red-and-green stripe and monogrammed heels, in a show otherwise devoted to tight, shiny, mid-nineties sex. The quiet character in a loud cast, with a stripe so you’d know whose quiet it was. The Row would never. Its grammar is agreement. Demna’s is contrast. I should admit I say “The Row” the way people say Hoover. It’s my unit of measurement, which is a fact about me. The words are anyone’s now. The sentences are still signed.